the 2 ¼ hp Triton MOF001 Router
in a Horizontal, Vertical and Sliding Table with the Extended Base Plate as
the Table Insert. The
terms vertical and horizontal are somewhat confusing. Here "horizontal"
and "vertical" refer to the plane of the base of the router as the
router moves over the work or the work over the router.
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|Sliding Router Table (RouterWriter)|
The Triton Router in a Horizontal Router Table
Here is an idea for the 2 ¼ hp Triton router ( MOF001) that I use in my shop. I use the extended base plate that comes with the router as a table insert, rather than remove the base and use a more traditional table insert. I have not seen this application anywhere else on the web or in magazines (but I can't really believe someone else hasn't come up with a same idea.). It is so simple and efficient that I thought I’d pass the idea along.
The Triton Router is so well engineered that no router lifter is needed (it's already built into the router.), and the bit can be changed above the table with one wrench. The design features make my application very simple.
The only alteration I had to make to the router is a half-inch hole drilled in the base plate (See Figure 2 below.) to line the winder handle up with the height adjustment shaft on the router. The hole does not interfere with any other part or any operation of the router.
1. The Triton base plate showing
the top of the router table.
2. To make the winder handle work, a 1/2
inch hole must be drilled in the base plate.
|Figure 3. The winder
handle inserted in new hole.
||Figure 4. The base
plate is secured in the table is one
pan head screw through a slot already provided.
The Triton Router in a Vertical Router Table
Another idea for the 2 ¼ hp Triton router ( MOF001) is to use it in a vertical table. Again the router is easily adaptable and needs no alterations. Below are pictures to illustrate. If you make such a table I recommend a good hard wood. (I used cherry, but oak or hard maple should serve as well.)
5. The router is suspended in
the back of the table by the extended base plate.
actual lifter is a vice apparatus
attached to a block of wood that lines up with the slot in the router
A close up from the
front shows the router suspended
from the block of wood. (Those
side blocks can be positioned to secure the router from moving by tightening
Figure 8. Channels
1/4 inch deep provide guides for the router base plate.
9. A back view of the router inserted
in the vertical table
The Triton Router in a Sliding Router Table
I wanted to use the router to make signs and designs on large pieces of wood so I designed a table that allows the router to move north, south, east and west. (southeast, northwest--you have to use your intuition and improvisation!). This sliding router table is also a great device for leveling large slabs of wood, such as for a table top. Leveling is achieved by simply inserting your slab of lumber, solid or glued up, on the router table top and moving the router back and forth across the piece to be smoothed in small progressions equal to slighly less than your smoothing bit's width.
It's a heck of a gadget and I'm thrilled with the result. The design is not wholly original as I've seen other router devices that accompish the same thing. And I know that for $6000 or so I can buy a tool that does similar things and a lot more. But this thing works. The whole table is about 60 inches long and 32 inches wide. It rests on a clamping rack I made, and the clampling rack just sits on two sawhorses. My height adjustment for placing the router above the table consists of inserting one-inch blocks at each corner
Again, the extended base that Triton supplies with the router made this construction easier. The main trolly runs along two pipes (I think what I used was actually heavy duty conduit--it's just something I found in another barn.) down the length of the table. The small trolly runs across the table. That the setup works is illustrated by the first attempt I made at writing on a pine piece of scrap. (I think I got lucky!)
To make the writing work, I had to employ a system of clamping and unclamping that gets a little sticky. Controlling the height of the letters was easy. I set two small C-clamps on the small trolly, one on each end of the travel that determined the letters' height (I figured this out by trial and error.) To move along the board as I added each letter, I had to clamp and unclamp some squeeze clamps that were set on one pipe of the main trolly. This procedure was tricky but intuitive. The really tricky part was deciding where to cross the H and the A. I just chose an approximation of the half-way point and moved the large trolly accordingly (You have to clamp the little trolley to the track so you get a traight line.). When I did the tail of the R, I was in no-man's land. I moved both trolleys at the same time--and it worked!! I have to listen to the router to determine when the cut across a letter is complete (I cut the up and down parts of each letter first).
I made the trolly where the router sits so that it will also accomodate a Skilsaw that I have. The Skilsaw makes cutting sheets of plywood and other unwieldy pieces easier. (although, the table is not big enough to handle anything much over 50 inches)
The main trolly runs on these handmade casters. They are blocks of cherry wood with a small bearing inserted in the top of each block. Two blocks are joined on each side of the table, then fastened to the small trolly track across the table. The track across is made up of two pieces of 2" aluminum angle that is stiffened with strips of cherry.
|The small trolly rides on four small bearings inserted in aluminum angle stock, then clamped to the router's extended base by way of that piece of cherry wood running across the extended base. Three pan head screws secure the angle aluminum to the cherry block. I had to make a rounded cut into the cherry to make the block fit around the router base.|
The finished product